RICK OWENS Distress flares fired at intervals throughout the show from the top of six towering platforms stationed in the Palais d’Tokyo fountain. With bright coloured plumes of smoke curled upwards, it was one part apocalyptic, one part jubilant. ‘Considering joy [as] a moral obligation I propose a grim, determined elegance…’ Owens said in his show notes. Which in fashion terms means best foot forward in head-to-toe black. The high-waisted trouser trend got a sign off here, too, often worn with oversized jackets. Billowing technical cagoules and shorts with bare chests were a key look.

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